Ah, Venice. Few are immune to the city's charms. The mere mention of the name sets romantic hearts afire, adventurous minds to wandering. Magical, enchanting, mesmerizing, and utterly surreal, the city has no trouble living up to its adjectives, floating dreamlike atop 117 seemingly uninhabitable islands in the middle of a lagoon. More than 150 canals serve as watery streets crisscrossed by 400 bridges in this most unconventional of cities. This curious disregard for urban planning would seem to have posed a challenge for even the most passionate cartographer but maps exist nonetheless, as if for the sole purpose of teasing the tourists.

Getting hopelessly lost in Venice is a rite of passage for visitors, and even those with well-honed orienteering skills are bound to run smack into a dead end sooner or later. Losing yourself in Venice, both literally and figuratively, is easy. Losing your mind if you happen to be one of the thousands who descend on the city in the summer months is easier still. If elbow room, solitude, and balmy, 70-degree days are high on your list of vacation priorities, consider planning a trip during the off-season. Crowds are thinner, and the weather is cool and pleasant in May, June, September, and October. July and August bring sticky, steamy heat and throngs of sightseers. Plus, a funkier-than-normal odor hovers stubbornly above the murky waters of the canals.

Indeed, a visit to la Serenissima (the Serene Republic) in high season is not for the meek. Fortunately for the summer visitor, there are ways to cope. Adopting a fierce if-you-can't-beat-'em, join-'em attitude and bracing yourself for unavoidable jostling helps. You can also seek solace in the city's signature refreshments, air-conditioned cultural institutions and nearby lagoon islands.

Cooling Cuisine
Gelato, Gelati, Gelateria. Learn these words and learn them well. Gelato is a richer, creamier, denser, more delicious version of the American summer staple: ice cream. Italians call it gelati, technically the plural form of the word, as in one gelato, two gelati, three gelati, four. A gelateria is a place to buy gelati and a common stop for Venetians on their traditional evening passeggiata, or stroll. Waiting for dusk to descend on the sultry city before gobbling up a cone of this frozen confection shows admirable restraint, but don't be shy, indulge. A scoop or two (or three) is a quick, cheap, and easy remedy for boosting travel-weary spirits and banishing crowd-induced bad moods. American versions just don't compare when it comes to this mouth-watering treat. Gelati tastes great morning, noon, and night, and many vendors open for business as early as 10am. Standard flavors such as chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry are always available, but other sure-fire favorites include nocciola (hazelnut) and stracciatelli (chocolate chip). Fruit flavors made from local Veneto-region summer crops are also refreshing choices.

A bountiful peach harvest, which in Italy runs from June through September, provides the mixings for the Bellini, a cocktail made from white peach juice or purée and prosecco (sparkling Italian wine). The drink was invented in 1948 by Giuseppe Cipriani, the proprietor of Harry's Bar, a Venetian landmark and celebrity hot spot that was once a haunt for Ernest Hemingway, Sinclair Lewis, and Orson Welles. Summer visitors can thank Giuseppe for this refreshing, soul-soothing concoction, which was inspired by the fragrance of fresh peaches and the pink glow in a painting by the 15th-century Venetian artist Giovanni Bellini. Rarely appearing on cocktail menus outside of Italy, Bellinis are available year-round at Harry's, but are at their most tempting during the summer.

Climate Control
Venice is often compared to a giant open-air museum. Architectural thrills, colorful characters, and picturesque cityscapes lurk around every corner. No Venice itinerary would be complete without spending a few hours in the Piazza San Marco, the city's centerpiece, which houses two of the world's cultural treasures: the Basilica of San Marco and the Doge's Palace. View the ornate mosaics and tapestries at the Basilica and take an elevator to the top of the Campanile for a bird's-eye perspective of the city and beyond. The stunning frescoes adorning the ceilings of the Doge's Palace are worth the inevitable neck strain. Feeling flush? Blow some euro at Caffé Florian, which boasts a prime location on the square for viewing the pigeon parade and human spectacle while sipping a frothy cappuccino. Summer visitors would be wise to take in these sights in the morning before temperatures climb and crowds gather, and then, borrowing a trick from the denizens of New York, Philadelphia, and other hot and humid urban locales, head for the air-conditioning in the afternoon. Venice has no shortage of museums and galleries, but there may be no better choices than the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Galleria dell'Accademia for a chance to view both modern masterpieces and Renaissance treasures. Both are located in the eclectic Dorsoduro quarter, Venice's least populated neighborhood.

Housed in an unfinished palazzo with a prominent perch on the Grand Canal, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is a haven for modern art aficionados, featuring over 300 images and objects from the first half of the 20th century. Works by Picasso, Pollock, Miró, Rothko, Mondrian, and others hang in the kitchen, bedrooms, library, drawing room, guest rooms, and gardens formerly occupied by Peggy Guggenheim. Guggenheim, the heiress and niece of the wealthy industrialist and legendary New York art collector Solomon R. Guggenheim, was an esteemed collector in her own right. Works representing most of the major modern-art movements--including cubism, surrealism, and abstract expressionism--are displayed in the main galleries. Don't miss the delightful Patsy R. and Raymond D. Nasher Sculpture Garden and rotating, temporary exhibits in the New Wing. The museum operates two shops, one of which maintains a separate entrance next door. Wares include the usual souvenir art books, postcards, and posters and the not-so-usual Peggy Guggenheim-inspired sunglasses and sandals. Patrons of the Museum Café can dine inside (in air-conditioned splendor), or on the terrace overlooking the garden. The Collection stays open until 10pm on Saturdays from April through October.

For a peek into the venerable past of Venetian painting, check out the comprehensive collection at the Galleria dell'Accademia, located within walking distance of the Guggenheim. The best and brightest of the Venetian school, who were hailed for their brilliant use of light and color, are represented here with works spanning the 13th through the 18th centuries. Lorenzo Veneziano's Annunciation, Titian's Pietà, Giorgione's Tempest, Bellini's Piazza San Marco, and Veronese's Banquet in the House of Levi are some of the renowned masterpieces on view here. Additional highlights include notable works by Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Mantegna, and Guardi.

Water, Water, Everywhere
Exploring Venice on foot is a snap. Wheeled vehicles are illegal, with the exception of handcarts and baby carriages, and just a few winding blocks separate the city's main attractions. Despite the ease and popularity of the sightseeing stroll, walking can take its toll and weary feet are bound to beg for a rest. What better way to rejuvenate tired toes and flagging touring enthusiasm than to hop aboard one of the many canal-cruising vessels for a joy ride on the water? Beware that a romantic gondola ride, the seemingly quintessential Venice experience, will set you back a pretty penny. Private water taxis, which don't come equipped with meters, can charge a hefty fare for just a short ride. But thrifty visitors shouldn't despair, because Venice's public transportation system puts a boat ride within reach of just about every travel budget.

Vaporetti, the ubiquitous motorized water buses, provide frequent and inexpensive transport. Fares are modest, and one-day, three-day, and weekly discount passes are also available. If you find yourself far from the Grand Canal's three principal bridges, the little-known gondola-style public ferries called traghetti make regular crossings from seven points along the Grand Canal.

For a leisurely sightseeing cruise and floating views of the city, board vaporetto No. 1, which makes all stops along the Grand Canal. The No. 1 line also crosses the lagoon to the Lido, a narrow sandy island that separates the Venetian Lagoon from the Adriatic Sea. Due to pollution, the waters here are largely off-limits for swimming but day-trippers can still soak up the sun on the beach or ride a rented bicycle along the grand promenade for a look at the luxury resorts.

The islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcelli are also easily accessible by vaporetto and ferry, and provide an excellent respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. Murano, commonly dubbed "The Glass Island," has sheltered exiled Venetian glassblowers for thousands of years. Master craftsmen and their apprentices open their factory doors to visitors, who can also shop for ornamental glass and souvenirs that are created on the spot. Also of interest is the Museo Vetrario (Glass Museum). Exhibits trace the development of the art and manufacture of glass over the centuries. You can reach Murano in less than 10 minutes via vaporetto No. 52, which departs from Riva degli Schiavoni near Piazza San Marco. Brightly colored houses line the streets of Burano, a charming fishing village known as the 18th-century lace-making capital. Stop at the Scuola di Merletti di Burano (School and Museum of Lace Making) to see the students at work and to purchase handmade lace items. Then dine on the local fish catch at the trattoria. Ferries for the 30-minute crossing to Burano depart from Fondamenta Nuova on Murano. If you're on a quest for peace and quiet, make like Hemingway, who often escaped the city's crowds on the island of Torcello. Board vaporetto no. 12 or 14 from Piazza San Marco for the 45-minute ride. The chief attractions here, aside from relative solitude, are the Byzantine mosaics at the Cattedrale di Torcello, the oldest church in Venice.•